The windows do not close tightly? Here I explain how to do it properly.
Door window
Removing the front panels
Before you can get started, you need to remove the door panels. The procedure described here refers to the standard trims. It should be similar for the deluxe versions. There, however, the armrest is not removable.
The first thing to do is to unscrew the door lock knob. Then, the window crank handel needs to be removed by using the c-clip removal tool (I don’t know what that thing is really called) to release the c-clip. The armrest is bolted on with three screws, once that is off you can pull the door opener off with the clip remover.
Lastly, loosen the four screws that hold the door panel in place. Now we need to tilt the door panel and lift it up slightly. Now we should be able to hold it in our hands.
A film should now be stuck to the sheet metal door, which prevents water from softening the cardboard.
Adjustment of the window
All the adjustments will be of no use if you don’t know what a “perfectly adjusted” window looks like.
The top edge of the window should sit in the middle of the roof seal, slightly compressing it. If the window just touches the weatherstrip, but doesn’t compress it, we have a water or air leak.
One trick we can use to check the fit of the window to the glass is to thread a bill between the glass and the seal. When we pull the bill out, we should need some force. The tension must be the same at all points around the glass. If this is not the case, the glass must be adjusted. Also, when we open or close the door, the window should not hit any part of the A-pillar or roof.
Before we begin, we need to know that there are five steps to adjust the glass that need to be worked on one by one. These are front and rear tilt, top stop, inward tilt and bottom stop. If we don’t do these steps in the right order, this adjustment will simply cause the next one to follow.
Setting the longitudinal inclination of the glass
This involves the inclination of the pane in the longitudinal direction, i.e. from front to back. First, we lower the glass by 3 centimeters (1,5 inch). The inner rail controls the inclination of the window from front to back. We loosen the screws (5) holding the rail and move the window so that the top edge of the window is even with the top edge of the door opening. Then we tighten the screws.
Adjusting the glass forward and backward
The positioning of the glass forward and backward is controlled by two screws (2) at the top of the rear window guide. This guide is slotted at the top or has a plate that allows adjustment. To make this adjustment, we slightly loosen the screws at the top of the guide and slide the channel so that the glass is evenly distributed at the leading and trailing edges in the door frame. Then tighten the screws according to this adjustment.
Adjusting the upper glass stopper
The stoppers are used in pairs and should be adjusted if the window compresses the roof seal too much or too little, as previously described. They should be adjusted when the window is closed in the door. If the adjustment of the upward stops does not allow for a closed window, we may need to adjust the inner track (5). The stops (one on each side of the glass track) are visible through access holes on the front (3) and back (1) sides of the door. We simply loosen the mounting screws and move each one until the glass presses against the window seal with slight force. Then tighten all the screws again.
If the window is still taut after adjusting the stops, we may need to adjust the inner track. The inner track is a short channel that fits the door and provides a path for the bottom roller. The door frame is recessed into the area at the back of the track, which allows for adjustment.
Adjust glass cross slope
This is about the inclination of the glass from the outside to the inside. The front and rear window guides are open at the top to allow for tilt adjustment. Moving the guides in moves the window in. Moving the guides out moves the window out. For the front, that’s (12)+(11) for the back, that’s (2)+(4). It sounds simple, and it is, but we need to make sure the glass seals evenly against the weatherstrip at all points.
If we find that the glass is moving outward when we drive, it is probably due to a defective or missing “blow out” clip. This clip is located near the top of the A-pillar and prevents the glass from moving outward when the car is driven at high speed. This clip should be bent to prevent outward movement of the glass while driving.
Adjusting the lower glass stop
We finish the adjustment process by checking how far the window rolls down into the door. If it rolls too far into the door, as evidenced by extra force when the window is lowered, we need to adjust the bottom stop on the bottom of the door until the glass is properly positioned. There is no adjustable stop on the 1968 & 69 models.
Door with labeling of the adjustment points
- Windows Rear Up-Travel Stop
- Rear Guide Upper Attaching Bolts
- Window Front Up-Travel Stop
- Rear Guide Lower Attaching Bolt
- Inner Panel Cam Attaching Bolts
- Windows Front and Rear Stabilizier Strips
- Door Lock Remote Control Attaching Bolts
- Selector Gear Stop Bolt
- Windows Lower Sash Channel Cam Stud Nut Access Holes
- Windows Regulator Attaching Bolt
- Front Guide Lower Attaching Bolt
- Front Guide Upper Attaching Bolts
Quarter Window
The rear windows are a little easier to adjust. However, since the front window leans there, it is no less important. The small rear window sits in alignment slightly behind the door window.
The procedure is similar.
Dismantling the rear panels
Again, the door panels need to be removed. However, this requires removing the rear seat back and the bench seat.
Then the window crank can be removed. It is best to then unscrew the carpet strips, because this holds the plastic profile from the door rebate. We have to loosen the plastic profile along the C-pillar a bit at the bottom and pull it off.
Finally, the above-mentioned plastic profile, which fixes the trim to the door rebate, must be pulled off. The film of the trim is pulled around the door rabbet and must be released carefully.
Now the door trim must be tilted from behind and pulled slightly forward upwards. Now we should have it in our hands.
There should now be a film stuck to the panel, which prevents water from softening the cardboard.
Adjustment of the window
The top edge of the window should also sit here in the middle of the roof seal, slightly compressing it. Again, the test with the bill between the glass and the seal can be applied. Also, the chrome rail of the window should not hit the door glass.
Glass position
We can adjust the pane to the C-pillar by loosening screws (1) and (2). To do this, we move the pane only horizontally/horizontally until it sits well in the seal.
Adjusting the glass cross slope
The lowest threaded rod (3) regulates the inner/outer inclination of the pane. To do this, we loosen the lock nut. Turning the threaded rod with a flat-blade screwdriver adjusts the tilt and thus the contact pressure along the length of the gasket.
Adjusting the upper glass stop
As the window closes, it moves to the door window and seals it at the back edge. The window should close no more than enough so that the gap between the door pane and the chrome strip is about 2-3 mm. If it is too little or too much, we can adjust it with the stop (4).
Glass parallelism
The parallelism, i.e. the alignment of the glass along its length with the driver’s door pane and the contact pressure on the C-pillar, is regulated with screws (1) and (2). To do this, we loosen the lock nuts again and can then adjust the threaded rods with a screwdriver.
Rear side panel with labeling of the adjustment points
- Front Guide Upper
- Rear Guide Upper
- Lower Guide / Tilt adjustment
- Upper Window Stop
- Windows Regulator Attaching, the other 4 Bolts